2012 Harvest Bulletin 7: Big Improvement In Cabernet Sauvignon This Week  
October 27th - Winemakers figure it out: 2012 is splendid for wine quality if one modified ones best practices for extracting quality from turgid grapes.
Doug McKesson and Leo McCloskey
  Now we know how to make 2012 wine—harvest in October and pay attention to 2005.

2012 is splendid for wine quality for anyone that modified their own best practices.

Best practices are born in great vintages like 2007 and 2008. Problem is these practices did not work in 2012 in Napa Valley. Weather wise this was a cool season. Heat summations are similar to 2005. Later winemakers experienced a 30% drop in 90-point scores in Napa Valley. Elsewhere—Santa Cruz to Sonoma—results were poor. Why?

Now we know wines made in September were low in quality. Turgid grapes were difficult to extract through Fall Equinox—September 22nd. This is what happened in 2005. We recommended a pause in harvesting until October 7th, until we could craft changes to the standard fermentation practices.

With a little luck and a lot of hard work by winemakers, the ingredients of quality proved to be grapes harvested after October 7th and our modifications to the "best fermentation practices," which remain the secret of our customers.

Today, Late Maturing Grape Group (LMGG) quality at drain down is as high as 2007. How high? This week average Enologix Index for Cabernet Sauvignon at pressing was 0.40 with 100% Tannin and 87% Complex Anthocyanin extraction. However, other Bordeaux varietals, namely Merlot and Malbec, are much more difficult to extract through October 26th (Table 1).

Table 1. 2012 Wine Extraction by Varietal
Varietal Tannin Free Anthocyanin Complex Anthocyanin
Wine Extraction (of Grapes over 24 Brix)
Petit Verdot 107% 77% 99%
Cabernet Sauvignon 106% 65% 87%
Merlot 106% 69% 75%
Zinfandel 93% 62% 65%
Malbec 74% 68% 57%
Pinot Noir 73% 53% 48%


As winemakers, we need to know whether this 2012 season will be highly rated by the Wine Spectator. To many, thinking about the Cabernet Sauvignon issue, November 15th 2015, may seem outlandish. That’s exactly what we are doing here at Enologix between Thanksgiving and Christmas when we calculate the Q-10 Index for 2012 (more discussion about the Q-10 Index in our November 1st Post Harvest Bulletin.)

In the meantime, If you haven't seen your quality improve at pressing, then now is the time to make a drastic change in your processing. Here’s our advice to winemakers that want high scores in 2012. Put all your energy into extracting as much quality as early in the fermentation as possible to make the highest quality wine. Wines that are beautiful and balanced and genuine in the bottle, must have an Aging Index above 0.80 in addition to a high Enologix Index at pressing. You will need to use every tool in 2012. Contact Enologix for more details.

Merlot Winemaking Performance Today
Winemakers solved the Merlot conundrum.
Winemakers found and replicated the right fermentation practice. "Merlot dextracted 100% Tannin and 75% Complex Anthocyanin. for the scond week in a row" says Doug McKesson of Enologix. Merlot is by far the most difficult Bordeaux variety to extract. "In 2012 successful wines were made by aggressively managing fermentations down to zero brix."

Table 2. 2012 Merlot Winemaking Performance
Winemaking Stage N Index Aging Tannin Free
Anthocyanin
Complex
Anthocyanin
Brix
Merlot Grapes
All 70 0.40 0.76 1118 862 187 24.3
>24° Brix 38 0.56 0.85 1157 922 211 25.6
Merlot Extraction
Macerations - All 194 -0.03 0.63 804 655 115 7.8
Macerations ≤ 13° Brix 147 0.09 0.63 917 707 131 5.5
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 79% 77% 62% -
Wines 80 0.16 0.61 1152 638 159 -
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 100% 69% 75% -


Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot Performance
The highest quality Bordeaux varietals will be drained this coming week.
Winemakers have finally been able to establish their modified fermentation protocols and are producing high wine quality. Cabernet Sauvignon wines improved - extracting 100% Tannin and 88% Complex Anthocyanin for the season. The regions not requiring modified fermentations are Alexander Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains and portions of eastern Napa Valley hillsides. All other regions are requiring multiple modifications to standard practices.

Table 3. 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Performance
Winemaking Stage N Index Aging Tannin Free
Anthocyanin
Complex
Anthocyanin
Brix
Cabernet Sauvignon Grapes
All 307 0.62 0.87 1241 1017 232 24.5
>24° Brix 187 0.75 0.93 1244 1062 245 25.5
Cabernet Sauvignon Extraction
Macerations - All 324 0.07 0.70 850 643 135 11.1
Macerations ≤ 13° Brix 203 0.25 0.71 1018 703 162 6.1
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 82% 66% 66% -
Wines 127 0.40 0.73 1316 687 213 -
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 106% 65% 87% -


Table 4. 2012 Malbec Performance
Winemaking Stage N Index Aging Tannin Free
Anthocyanin
Complex
Anthocyanin
Brix
Malbec Grapes
All 19 0.82 1.00 1292 1259 298 24.3
>24° Brix 11 0.92 1.00 1334 1402 338 25.2
Malbec Extraction
Macerations - All 32 0.15 0.88 741 804 139 9.1
Macerations ≤ 13° Brix 23 0.10 0.86 749 798 137 5.6
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 57% 54% 41% -
Wines 15 0.41 0.89 987 957 191 -
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 74% 68%b> 57% -


Table 5. 2012 Petit Verdot Performance
Winemaking Stage N Index Aging Tannin Free
Anthocyanin
Complex
Anthocyanin
Brix
Petit Verdot Grapes
All 38 0.55 0.87 1280 1053 240 24.4
>24° Brix 21 0.73 0.97 1342 1106 274 25.5
Petit Verdot Extraction
Macerations - All 19 0.29 0.80 953 702 175 8.4
Macerations ≤ 13° Brix 15 0.26 0.77 981 605 176 8.1
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 107% 77% 99% -
Wines 12 0.64 0.88 1440 854 271 -
Extraction (Grapes ≥24° Brix) - - - 107% 77% 99% -


Questions?

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